Shoe sewing machine



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I SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 23 1933 15 Sheets-Sheet 11 Fly 30 June 9, 1936.

F. ASHWORTH SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 25, 1953 13 Sheets-Sheet l2 Wfiness m b 0 I S W 1936.. F. ASHWORTH 2,043,219

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 25, 1953 13 Sheets-Sheet 15 F Ly. 35

Wiinessi U/Las. TOZson Patented June 9, 1936 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE SEWING MACHINE Application'November '23, 1933, Serial No. 699,341

21 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines, and is herein disclosed as embodied in a machine for sewing the welt to the sole and out-turnedupper of a stitch-down shoe supported on a last.

The present machine is similar in many respects to the stitcher disclosed in the inventors copending application Serial No. 596,051, filed March 1, 1932 upon which Patent No. 2,015,654 issued October 1, 1935, and employs substantially the same operating instrumentalities cooperating in a substantially similar manner to form a locks'titch seam. These instrumentalities include a rotating shuttle located below the work table, l5 a curved hook needle also located below the work table, a loop spreader for moving the needle 1001) into the path of the shuttle, a curved =awl located above the work table, a looper and a thread arm for placing the needle thread in the needle, 'a ro- 2'0' tary take-up for setting the stitch, and a thread lock against which the stitch is set.

As in the machine illustrated in the application above referred to, the presser foot and work support are mounted on a carriage which is arranged to reciprocate in the line of feed to feed the work, and is advanced by the operation of the stop motion in stopping the machine 'to carry the work out of the path of the needle, and thus secure an immediate cessation of thesewing as the cam shaft of the machine is brought to 'a more gradual stop.

In carrying out the present invention, the construction and operation of certain of the 'operat'ing devices of the machine have been modified and improved, and anumber of new features have been added which contribute to produce a more simple and at the same time more eifective machine. w

More specifically, one feature of the invention relates to the provision of mechanism controlled by the stop motion of the machine to advancethe carriage and carry the shoe out of the path of the needle, to release the shoe, and thereafter to return the carriage to its normal operating position ready to receive a new piece of work. Related changes have been made in the mechanisms for controlling the operation of thetake-up, the presser foot, and the thread cutting and holding devices, to cause these several mechanisms to per form their accustomed operations, upon stopping the machine, to release the shoe and sever the threads, and at the same time 'to set these'devices in readiness for a new operation on a shoe.

Another feature of the invention consists in the provision of a novel and improved thread finger comprising two gripping members which are arranged to engage with and form a bight in the needle thread and position one leg of the bight tightly across the looper, and at the same time leave slack thread in the leg of the bight leading to the Work to permit the work to be fed at this time without danger of breaking or dislodging the thread.

Another feature of the invention consists in a novel and improved welt cutting device which may be actuated manually during the continued operation of the machine, and which operates instantaneously to cut the welt cleanly and accurately to form a joint with the leading end of the welt.

Still another feature of the invention consists in the provision of means for enabling the operator .accurately to measure the amount of new welt passed through the welt guide to provide a suiiicient length of welt for the beginning of a new sewing operation.

While the several features of the invention are particularly well adapted for use in a machine of the present description, it will be understood that certain features are capable of broader application, and are therefore not to be limited to the exact structure or type of machine herein disclosed.

The several features of the invention consist also in the devices, combinations and arrangement of parts herein described and claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained thereby, will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view in right side elevation of a stitcher embodying the several features of the present invention; Fig. 2 is a view in frontelevation of a portion of the head illustrating particularly the instrumentalities for engaging the work, these parts being shown in stop position; Fig. 3 is a view in right side elevation of a portion of the head with parts broken away to illustrate particularly the work supporting carriage, the .presser foot mechanism, and the stop motion; Fig. 4 is a detail sectional plan view of mechanism for controlling the presser foot, and is taken on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a detail view of the ,presser foot lock taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4; Fig. 6 is an enlarged detail view in side elevation of the presser foot clamping and lifting mechanism shown in Fig. 3,; Fig. 7 is a sectional view taken on the line 7-! of Fig. 6; Fig. 8 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 8-8 of Fig. 7; Fig. 9 is a sectional plan view of the machine head taken on the line 99 of Fig. 3, the parts being shown in operating position; Fig. 10 is a detail view showing the means for adjusting the feeding movements of the carriage, and is taken on the line I8--I0 of Fig. 9; Fig. 11 is a view in rear elevation with the frame broken away on the line IIII of Fig. 9 to illustrate particularly the stop motion, the parts being shown in stop position; Fig. 12 is a view of certain of the parts shown in Fig. 11 in running position; Fig. 13 is a view in left side elevation of the head, with portions of the casing broken away to show underlying parts, more particularly the stop motion, the parts being shown in operating position; Fig. 14 is a detail view of the latch for tripping the stop motion into operation taken on the line I 4-44 of Fig. 13; Fig. 15 is a detail plan view of the operating cams and the stop motion taken on the line I 5I 5 of Fig. 13 Fig. 16 is a top plan view of the head, illustrating particularly the take-up and thread finger mechanism; Fig. 17 is a detail view in front elevation taken on the line I'I-I'l of Fig. 16; Fig. 18 is a view in right elevation of the parts as shown in Fig. 17, partly in section to illustrate the underlying parts; Fig. 19 is a detail view partly in section of the thread lock release taken on the line I9I 9 of Fig. 18; Fig. 20 is a view in front elevation of the thread finger and actuating mechanism taken on the line 2020 of Fig. 16; Fig. 21 is a view in side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 20; Figs. 22 and 23 illustrate successive positions in the formation of the stitch to show particularly the operation of the thread finger; Fig. 24 is a detail view in left side elevation on an enlarged scale, of the needle thread gripping mechanism; Fig. 25 is a sectional view of the parts shown in Fig. 24, on the line 25-425 of Fig. 24; Fig. 26 is a detail sectional View taken on the line 26-26 of Fig. 3, and illustrating particularly the operation of the needle and shuttle thread cutting and holdin devices; Fig. 27 is a plan view taken on the line 21-21 of Fig. 26; Fig. 23 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 2828 of Fig. 27; Fig. 29 is a detail view on an enlarged scale of the welt cutting mechanism looking from the right; Fig. 30 is a plan View of substantially the parts shown in Fig. 29; Fig. 31 is a front elevation of the same mechanism; Fig. 32 is a view similar to Fig. 31

showing the knife in cutting position; Fig. 33 is a detail view partly in section of the welt guide, to illustrate the welt measuring device; Fig. 34 is a detail sectional plan view taken on the same plane as Fig. 9, illustrating particularly the feed carriage and its actuating mechanism; Fig. 35 is a detail view in side elevation of certain of the parts illustrated in Fig. 34; and Fig. 36 is a plan view of the parts illustrated in Fig. 35.

As illustrated in the drawings, the machine is driven from a horizontal drive shaft 46 mounted in the base of the machine and connected through a starting and stopping clutch 48 with the armature shaft 60 of an electric motor 52. The drive shaft 66 is connected through bevel gears 54 and 56 with a vertical drive shaft 58 which extends upwardly through the machine column and is arranged to drive the cam shaft 60 through the engagement of a spiral gear 62 on the shaft 58 with a corresponding gear 64 on the cam shaft. The position of the clutch members 48 is controlled by means of a bell-crank clutch shifting lever 66 pivoted at 68 in the base of the machine, and provided with a yoke with rolls adapted to ride in a groove I formed in the sleeve hub of one of the clutch members 48. The other arm of the bell-crank 66 is provided with a bearing surface arranged to engage with an offset portion of a vertically movable link 12 which is connected at its lower end to a horizontal lever arm I3 which carries the starting and stopping foot treadle I4. The treadle arm I3 is pivoted at I6 to the machine frame, and is normally held in a raised inoperative position to disengage the clutch members 48 by means of a tension spring I8 which is connected between the foot treadle and a pin 80 on the machine column. The machine is driven during the operation of stopping the machine at a relatively slow rate as hereinafter more fully described, by means of a constant,'slow speed drive which comprises a horizontal drive shaft 82 (see Figs. 1, 9, 11 and 13) mounted in the machine column, and connected through a worm 84 to a corresponding worm gear 86 formed integrally with a slow speed clutch member 88 loosely sleeved to turn on the drive shaft 58. The slow speed drive shaft 82 is driven at a constant rate by means of a belt 90 which passes over a pulley 92 on the end of the slow speed drive shaft 82, and over a corresponding pulley 94 on the constantly rotating armature shaft 50 of the motor 52.

The devices for supporting the work in the machine during the stitching operation, comprise a work support I60 and a presser foot I02 which are mounted, as in the present applicants copending application above referred to, on a feed carriage I04 (see Figs. 2, 3, 6, 9 and 34) arranged to oscillate about a single pivot to impart the required feeding movements to the work. This pivot comprises a vertically arranged pin I06 secured in a slide I08 which is arranged for forward and retracting movements in the machine frame, and is controlled from the stop motion of the machine to advance the work out of the path of the needle to abruptly terminate the seam when the foot treadle is released by the operator. In accordance with one feature of the present invention, mechanism is provided which acts to advance the carriage and the work supported thereon to inoperative position, to release the work, and thereafter to retract the carriage to its normal operating position as the machine is brought finally to rest. At the same time the speed of the machine is reduced and the cam shaft is driven through the slow speed drive above referred to, to a predetermined stop position with the needle and awl both retracted from the Work preparatory for the beginning of a new seam. This arrangement of the operating mechanism enables the sewing operation to be discontinued almost instantaneously while the rotating parts may be more gradually brought to rest in the desired positions to put the machine in complete readiness for the next succeeding stitching operation.

The mechanism by which the carrier I08 is advanced and again retracted in stopping the machine, comprises a cam disk II2 (see Figs. 3, 9, 11, 12, 13 and 34) which is secured to a vertical shaft II4 journalled in bearings in the machine frame, and is provided on its under side with a cam groove II6 arranged to receive a roll IIB mounted on the rear end of the carrier I 08. In stopping, the shaft H4 and cam disk II2 are rotated through one-sixth of a revolution to advance the carriage and to connect the machine to the low speed drive, and are thereafter driven through another one-sixth of a revolution to retract the carriage, disconnect the low speed drive, and bring the cam shaft of the machine to a positive stop in a predetermined angular position. This rotation of the shaft I I4 and cam H2 is accomplished by means of a Geneva stop motion, the star wheel I20 of which is secured to the upper end of the shaft I I4, and is provided with six slots I22 which are arranged to receive an actuating pin or bolt I24 mounted in the continuously rotating gear 62. During the normal operation of the machine while sewing, the bolt I24 is held in raised position out of engagement with the wheel I20, as shown in Figs. 9 and 14, by the engagement of a latch I26 pivoted on the upper face of the gear '62 with a notch in the bolt. A spring I28 fastened on the, upper face of the gear engages with a small pin on the latch to hold it normally in looking engagement with the bolt I24. Upon release of the bolt by the latch I26, the bolt is moved downwardly into operative position to engage in a slot 122 of the wheel I20 by means of a compression spring I 30 (see Figs. 9 and 11) carried at its lower end on a pin on the bolt and secured within a recess in the gear 62. The latch I26 is actuated to release the bolt I24, and cause the Geneva wheel I20 and cam disk IIZ to be rotated through one-sixth of a revolution to advance or retract the carrier by means of a trip member I32 which is secured to the upper end of a sleeve member I34 (see Figs. 11 and 12), and is arranged when rendered operative to move into the path of and trip the latch. Thebolt is returned to raised position where it is again engaged by the latch I26 during the continued rotation of the gear 62 by means of a fixed cam I36 (see Figs. 3, 9 and 11) which is formed on 'a bracket 1 38 'on the machine frame, and engages an arm I40 projecting laterally from the upper end of the bolt I24. sleeve member I34 is slidably mounted on a verticalshaft I42 (see Figs. 11 and 12), and is keyed against rotation by the engagement of the pin I44 on the shaft with a slot I46 formed in the lower end of the sleeve. The shaft 442 is mounted at each end in brackets 148 and I50, and is rigid- 1y secured in position by means of a set screw I152 in the bracket I 50. A tension spring I54 connected atone end to the set screw I52, and at its other end to a pin on the sleeve member I34, tends to hold the sleeve member in a raised position against the bracket I50 to bring. the trip member I32 into the path of the latch 126.

The position of the sleeve member 134 is controlled from the starting and stopping treadle 14 through connections which comprise a .plate I56 (see Figs. :11, 12 and 13) mounted to swing about a pivot pin 1 58 on the machine frame, and pro vided with a cam slot I60 adapted to receive a cam' 'roll 162 supported on the sleeve member 1'34. The plate I56 is rotated "about :its pivot I58 tc-determine the vertical position of the sleeve I34 by means of a link I64 connected by means of a pin I65 to the plate I56 and at its lower end to a horizontally extending lever 'arm I66 on a rock shaft I68 (see Figs. -1 and 9). The angular position of the rock shaft I 68 is in turn controlled by means of a vertical link I10 which is con-, nected between the lever arm I66 and the foot treadle 14. During the operation on a shoe, with the foot treadle held in its depressed position, the plate I56 is maintained in the operating position shown in Fig. 13, to maintain the sleeve member I34 and trip member I 32 intheir depressed positions against the pressure 'of the springI-54 out of the path of the latch I 26. When The the foot treadle is released in stopping the machine, the sleeve I34 and trip member 132 are permitted to 'rise under the influence of their spring I54 to trip the latch I26 and permit the stop motion to be thrown into operation.

With the construction and arrangement of the stop motion of the machine herein disclosed, the star wheel 120 and shaft H4 are arranged to be given two 60 turns during two successive revolutions of the main drive shaft 58, the carriage I04 being advanced during the first revolution to carry the work out of the path of the needle, and during the second revolution to return the carriage to its normal operating position. Mechanism is also provided which is arranged during the first turn of the'star wheel I20 and shaft I14 to engage a slow speed drive to retard and rotate the main drive shaft 58 at a slow rate, and which is rendered operative during the second 60 turn of the shaft I I4 to disconnect the slow speed drive "and stop the machine in a predetermined angular position with the needle and 'awl withdrawn from the work preparatory to the sewing of a new seam. These mechanisms are so arranged that the depressing of the starting treadle by the operator to start the machine, will auto matically reset the stop motion.

As best shown in Figs. 9, 11 and 13., the slow speed clutch member 88 is arranged to engage with a corresponding conical-shaped clutch member I16 which is keyed to turn with the drive shaft 58. The position of the clutch member I16 lengthwise of the shaft '58 to engage with the slow speed driving clutch member 88, is determined by means of a bell-crank clutch lever I18 pivoted at I on the machine frame, and provided on one arm with a supporting yoke and two rolls I82 which are arranged to ride in a peripheral groove I84 in the sleeve hub of "the clutch member I16. An upwardly extending arm of the bell-crank I18 is provided with a cam roll I86 which is arranged to engage with a peripheral cam surface I88 of the cam disk IIZ. Two heavy tension springs I98 coiled about the sleeve hub of the bell-crank I18 and having their opposite ends connected respectively to the upwardly extending arm of the bell crank I 18 and rigidly secured collars I92 tend to swing the bell-crank I18 in a direction to engage the slow speed driving clutch members I16 and 88, and also to maintain the cam roll I86 in engagement with the peripheral cam surface of the cam disk I I2. As clearly indicated in Fig. 15, the first turn of the shaft I I4 and cam disk II2 causes the cam roll I86 to ride off the high portion of the cam, permitting the low speed clutch to be engaged, the parts at the end of the first turn having assumed substantially the position shown in Fig. 15. The second 60 turn of the cam II2 causes the roll I86 to be brought again into engagement with the high portion of the'cam to move the bellcrank I18 against the pressure of its springs I to disengage the low speed clutch members I16 and 88.

For bringing the machine to a positive stop in a predetermined position, a latch member I96 is provided which is arranged to engage with 'a stop member I98 on a disk 28!! rigidly secured to the sleeve hub of the low speed clutch member I16 keyed to the drive shaft 58. The latch member I06 is formed on a sleeve member 202 loosely mounted to turn on the shaft 142 immediately below and abutting the sleeve member I34. A second lever arm 204 formed on the sleeve member 2112 is provided with a depending cam roll 206 which is arranged to engage with the peripheral edge of the cam disk H2, and is maintained constantly in engagement therewith by means of a tension spring 208 connected at one end to a pin 2I0 secured to the sleeve member 202, and at its other end to a pin 2I2 on the machine frame. The cam disk I I2 is provided on its upper peripheral edge, as best shown in Figs. 12, 13 and 15, with three flanges 2 I 4 which are arranged to engage against a shoulder 2I6 on the cam roll 206 to maintain the sleeve member 202 and latch member I96 in a depressed position to hold the latch member I96 out of the path of the stop I98 during a predetermined interval of time during the operation of the stop mechanism. A tension spring 2I8 connected at one end to the pin 2I0 on the sleeve member 202, and at its other end to a pin 220 on the machine frame, tends to lift the sleeve member 202 to its raised or operative position to bring the latch member I96 into the path of the stop I98. The operation of this mechanism may be described in connection with the operation of the machine as follows:- With the machine in stopped position, the sleeve 202 has been raised to bring the latch member I96 into engagement with the stop I98, and the cam roll 206 will ride slightly onto the leading end of one of the flanges 2I4, rotating the sleeve 202 slightly against the pressure of its spring 208, and bringing the latch member I96 to its innermost position against the stop I98. When the starting and stopping treadle is depressed by the operator in starting the machine, the sleeve I94 and the sleeve member 292 abutting therewith are depressed to the position shown in Fig. 9 to disengage the latch I 96 from the stop I98, and cause the shoulder 2ft of the roll 206 to engage under the leading end of the flange 2I4, thus locking the sleeve 202 in its depressed position. When the foot treadle is now released to permit an upward movement of the sleeve member I34 and trip member l32 to place the Geneva stop motion in operation, the sleeve 202 and latch I96 are maintained in their low position against the pressure of the spring 2I8 by the continued engagement of the shoulder 2I6 of the roll 206 under the flange 2E4. Each of these flanges is of such length as to maintain the sleeve 202 locked in its depressed position during the first 60 turn of the star wheel shaft H4 and cam II2 to advance the carriage and work out of the path of the needle. During the subsequent 60 rotation of the star wheel and the cam II2 to return the carriage to its operating position, and while the machine is being driven by the slow speed drive, the roll 206 passes out from under the rear end of the flange 2 I4, so that the sleeve 202 is permitted to rise under the pressure of its spring 2I8 to bring the latch I96 into operative engagement with the positive stop I98 to stop the machine. As this position is reached, the roll 206 occupying a raised position, again rides slightly onto the leading end of the flange 2I4, thus resetting the mechanism for the next cycle of operations.

To hold and position the work, to impart the required feeding movements to the work, and to permit the work to be moved out of the path of the needle at the end of the sewing operation as above described, the work support 42 and presser foot 44 of the present machine are carried on the feed carriage I04. The work support I09 comprises a curved U-shaped member as in the applicants copending application above referred to, which is rigidly supported on the feed carriage I04 (see Figs. 2, 3 and 9), and has formed therein a rectangular-shaped aperture 224 through which the needle and awl are arranged to operate. As best shown in Fig. 2, the work support is secured at its left hand end to a curved arm 226 on the feed carriage I04, and at its right hand end to a bracket 228 also secured to the carriage I04.

The presser foot I 02 (see Figs. 2, 3 and 9) is formed on a curved member 230 which is rigidly secured at each end to the two arms of the forked upper end of the presser foot supporting member or bar 232. A rectangularly-shaped aperture 233 is provided in the presser foot I02 to provide a passage of the needle and awl through the presser foot. The presser foot bar 232 is carried on a pair of parallel links 234 pivotally mounted on a supporting post 236 which forms an integral part of the feed carriage I04, so that the presser foot bar 232 is permitted to move in a substantially lengthwise direction to bring the presser foot into and out of clamping engagement with the work. An arm 238 forming an integral part of the lower link 234 and extending downwardly therefrom, is connected to a tension spring 240 which tends to force the presser foot downwardly at all times into engagement with the work.

The presser foot bar 232 is raised to release the work by means of a presser foot lifting lever 242 which carries a roll 244 arranged to engage under the lower end of the presser foot bar 232. With the present construction the presser foot actuating lever 242 forms part of a frame 246 mounted to turn on a pivot shaft 248 on the carrier I08.

The presser foot is locked in clamping engagement with the work during each feeding movement by means of a locking wedge construction which comprises a tapered wedge block 249 (see Fig. 3) which is connected by means of a link 250 to move with the presser foot bar 232, and is slidably mounted together with a locking wedge 25I in a wedge box 252. The wedge box comprises two upwardly converging surfaces against which the wedge acts to secure the wedging or locking effect. The locking wedge 25I is arranged when moved downwardly to Wedge the two blocks against the two converging surfaces of the wedge box to lock the presser foot in clamping position, and is controlled from the presser foot actuating lever 242 by means of a connecting link 254 secured at one end to the locking wedge 25I and at its other end to the outer end of the presser foot lifting lever 242. A tension spring 256 connected between the presser foot lifting lever 242 and a point on the machine frame, tends to move the lever and the locking wedge 25I connected thereto downwardly to lock the presser foot in engagement with the work. An adjustable stop screw 25'I supported on the machine frame is arranged to provide a positive limit to the downward movement of the presser foot lifting lever 242. The upward movement of the presser foot actuating lever 242 during a portion of each sewing cycle, acts through the connecting link 254 to raise the wedge 25I to unlock the presser foot, and through the engagement of the roll 244 with the lower end of the presser foot bar 232, acts to slightly raise the presser foot against the pressure of the spring 240 to permit the back feed movement of the presser foot with relation to the work. The construction and mode of operation of the presser foot locking and lifting mechanism, as thus far described, is substantially that disclosed in the applicant's c0- pending application above referred to, to which reference may be had for a more complete illustration and description of this mechanism.

In accordance with one feature of the present invention, a novel and improved mechanism has been developed for raising the presser foot a uniform distance above the work during each feeding operation regardless of the thickness of the work. This mechanism comprises a cam lever 258 (see Figs. 3, 6 and 9) pivoted at258 on the machine frame, and provided with two cam rolls 260 .oifset on each side of the pivot to engage with peripheral cams on the cam shaft, as in the applicants copending application above referred to. The cam lever .258 is arranged to impart a vertical reciprocatory movementto a lever arm 262 secured to a pivot shaft 264 on the machine frame through a.link 266 which is connected at its lower end to the lever 262, and at its upper end to the cam lever 258 by means of a pin and slot connection adjustable to vary the effective throw'of the cam lever. The lever arm 262 at its forward end is arranged to bear against a'shoe 21! interposed between the end of the lever and a spiral cam 210. The shoe projects from a lever arm 213 (see Fig. 4) loosely pivoted on the shaft 248 and is provided with a roughened surface to cooperate with a correspondingly roughened peripheral surface of the cam 218. The cam 210 is formed on a pivot shaft 212 (see Figs.4, 6, 7 and 8) supported in bearings in two rearwardly extending arms of the presser foot lifting lever frame 246. The angular position of the spiral cam 21!) is automatically adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the work to cause the cam lever 258. and lever arm 282 to impart a uniform lift to the presser foot from the surface of the work. The mechanism for controlling the angular position of the spiral cam .210 comprises a pinion 214 mounted on the shaft 212 to engage with a pinion 216 on a shaft 218 which is supported on the presser foot actua'ting lever frame 246' parallel to and above the shaft 212. A second pinion 288 on the shaft 218 meshes with a gear segment formed on one arm of a bell-crank lever 282 loosely sleeved to turn on the pivot shaft 248 for the presser foot actuating lever 242 and frame 246. The bell-crank 282 is held yieldingly in a predetermined angular position with relation to the feed carriage I84 by means of a link 284 pivotally secured at one end to the free arm of the bell-crank 282, and at its other end journalled to slide in a bracket 286 formed on the feed carriage I84. A compression spring 288 coiled about the link 284 between a shoulder on the link and the bracket 288 tends to hold the bell-crank yieldingly in a limiting position determined by the engagement of locking nuts 29!] threaded on the end of the link 284 with the bracket 286. With this construction. and arrangement of the parts, movement of the presser foot lifting lever 242 and frame24'6 about the pivot 248 to raise or lower the presser foot bar 238, causes the spiral disk 218 to be correspondingly rotated through the connections above described, with the relatively stationary bell-crank 282 to secure the required adjustment of the angular position of the spiral disk 21!).

The operation of this mechanism for lifting the presser foot during each feeding operation may be briefly explained as follows:-With the position shown in Fig. 3, which illustrates the lever 262'in raised position, the shoe 2' resting lightly on the cam 210 and the presser foot I82 in gripping engagement with the work, it will be seen that the angular position of the presser foot lifting lever 242 and the frame 246 is determined in accordance with the thickness of the work through the positioning of the locking wedge 25! and connecting link 254. The angular position of the frame 246 in turn, acting through the connections above described including the relatively stationary bell-crank 282, causes the angular position of the cam disk216 to be correspondingly determined to leave a predetermined amount of clearance between the actuating lever 262 and the shoe 21l. As the actuating lever 262 is now depressed during the continued rotation of the machine cam shaft, the shoe 2' is brought firmly into engagement with the roughened peripheral surface of the cam 210, locking this member against further rotation with relation thereto, and causing the frame 246 and presser foot lever 242 to be rotated to slightly raise the presser foot 1162 from the work. Inasmuch as the disk 210 and the adjusting connectionsincluding the pinions214 and 216, and the gear 286 engaging the segment on the bell-crank 282, are locked against rotational movement during the downward move ment of the lever 262 to raise the presser foot, a corresponding rotational movement is imparted to the bell-crank 282 against the pressure of its spring 288. As the lever 262 is again raised to permit the engagement of the presser foot with the work, the spiral cam disk 216 is released from the shoe 2H, permitting the bell-crank 282 to return to its normal operating position under the pressure of its spring 288, and causing the angular position of the disk 218 to be again adjusted in accordance with the thickness of the work.

In order to release the work and permit its removal from the machine when the feed carriage l 84 is advanced to carry the work out of the path of the needle, mechanism is provided which'is rendered operative by the advancing movement of the carriage to raise the presser foot and to lock it in raised position. The locking mecha nism provided for this purpose is further arranged to maintain the presser foot in its raised inoperative position during the retracting'movement of the carriage, and is actuated to release the presser foot'and permit the clamping of a new piece of work in position only upon the depressing of the starting treadle of the machine. For raising the presser foot, an upwardly extending arm 282 is formed integrally with the frame 228, and is arranged during theadvancing movement of the carriage to be engaged by a fixed stop 2% on the machine frame, so that the continued advancing movement of the carriage will act to swing the frame 246 and presser foot lifting lever 242 about the pivot 248 to raise the presser foot to inoperative position. In order to lock the presser foot in its raised inoperative position, a locking mechanism is provided which comprises a latch lever 2% supported on a pivot 298 on the carrier slide 88. The latch 296 is arranged, upon movement of the frame 246 and presser foot lever 242 about their pivot 248 to raise the presser foot to inoperative position, for engagement with a corresponding surface 388 formed on the rear end of a bracket 382 supported on the pivot 248 and held adjustably in fixed position with relation to the presser foot lifting lever 242 and frame 246 by means of a clamping bolt 364 which passes through the lever 242 and a slot 386 in a forwardly extending portion of the bracket 302.

A tension spring 388 connected at one end to the carrier I68 and at its other end to a downwardly extending arm 3H] of the latch 296, tends to hold the latch in engaging position. The latch is released to permit the movement of the presser foot into operating engagement upon starting the machine through connections controlled by the starting and stopping foot treadle 14 comprising a vertically movable block 3|2 which is provided with a slot 3l4 to receive the latch arm 3H]. A cam 3l6 formed on one side of the slot is arranged upon downward movement of the block to engage with a corresponding cam 3l8 formed on the latch arm 3!!) to trip the latch and permit the return of the presser foot to operating position. For controlling the movement of the block 3I2, a link 320 is connected at its upper end to the block and at its lower end to a laterally extending lever arm 322 rigidly secured to the rock shaft I 68 which is in turn controlled by the starting and stopping treadle of the machine as above described. A downward movement of the treadle to start the machine acts through the connections described to depress the block 3 l2, and trip the latch so that the presser foot is permitted to move downwardly into operative engagement with the work.

For raising the presser foot independently of the operation of the stop motion of the machine, a presser foot treadle 324 is provided which is connected by a link 326 to a horizontal arm 328 formed in a sleeve 330 loosely mounted to turn on the rock shaft I68. A second arm 332 on the sleeve 338 is connected to impart a corresponding rotational movement to the frame 246 and presser foot lever 242 about the pivot 248 by means of a link 334 connected at one end to the arm 332 and at its other end to the frame 246. Lost motion is provided in the connections to permit a free movement of the frame 246 and presser foot lever 242 while the foot treadle 324 is in operative, by means of a pin and slot connection comprising a slot 336 formed in the upper end of the link 334 to engage with a pin 338 on the frame 249. The link 334 also serves as a guide for the block 3| 2, being arranged to pass through an aperture in the block. When the presser foot treadle 324 is depressed, the corresponding downward movement of the intervening connections including the link 334 causes the frame 246 and presser foot lever 242 to swing about their pivot 248 to raise the presser foot from the work. Assuming the machine is in operation, the latch 296 is held in a retracted position by the engagement of the cooperating cam surfaces 316 and 3H3, so that when the presser foot treadle is released, the presser foot is again permitted to return to operative position. If, on the other hand, the presser foot treadle is depressed to raise the presser foot with the machine in stop position, the presser foot will be latched in its raised position by the engagement of the latch 296 with the corresponding member 389 secured to the frame 246.

As in the inventors copending application above referred to, the feed carriage I64 is arranged to swing about its pivot in timed relation to the operation of the thread handling devices and the intermittent clamping movements of the presser foot to feed the work. With the present construction, a novel and improved construction is provided for imparting these feeding movements to the feed carriage I94 which comprises a frame 348 arranged to oscillate about a fixed pivot 342, and provided at its upper end with a cam lever arm 344 on which is carried a roll 346 to engage in a cam groove 348 which is formed in the lower face of a cam cylinder 359 mounted on the vertical drive shaft 58. There is also supported on the frame 348 directly beneath the pivot 342, a rearwardly extending guideway or track 352 which is located in a substantially parallel relationship to a corresponding track or guideway 354 formed on a rearwardly extending bar 356 fixedly mounted on the feed carriage I64. Oscillatory movements are imparted to the bar 358 and feed carriage I64 from the continuously oscillating frame 346 and track 352 through an adjustable connection which comprises a block 358 slidably mounted in the track 354, and a block 366 secured to block 358 by a pin 362 and arranged to ride in the track 352. It will readily be seen that a movement of the blocks 36!! and 358 toward or away from the axis of oscillation provided by the pivot shaft 342 will result in correspondingly decreasing or increasing the scope of the oscillatory movements to decrease or increase the length of stitch produced. An adjustment of the position of the blocks 358 and 366 to determine the length of stitch may be conveniently made by the operator through connections which comprise a link 364 formed on the block 358 and connected at its forward end to a lever 366 supported intermediate its length on a pivot 368. The position of the lever 366 is in turn determined by means of a rack 388 which meshes with a corresponding gear segment 382 formed on the free end of the lever 366. The rack 389 is mounted to slide in a guideway 334, being held frictionally in position by cover plates 386. A control handle 388 is provided to permit the operator conveniently to shift the rack and connections controlled there by to secure the required length of feeding movement. In order to permit the operator readily to set the rack in either of two limiting positions to provide a long stitch of predetermined length required on the side portions of the shoe margin, and a relatively short stitch around the.

toe, a plate 390 is adjustably secured to the rack 380 by means of a clamping bolt 392 journalled through the plate and through a slot 394 in the rack 380, and is arranged to cooperate with two corresponding stop members 396 and 388 supported on the machine frame. In order to permit a variation in the amount of the adjustment which may be obtained in the length of feed, the stop member 398 is adjustably clamped in position by means of a clamping nut 483 which extends through a slot 492 in the stop member 398.

The thread handling devices of the present machine, as best shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 16 to 23 inclusive, of the drawings, include a curved hook needle 404, an awl 486, a looper 438 for placing the thread in the hook of the needle, a thread finger comprising the gripping members M9 and M2, a shuttle 4l4, a loop spreader M6, and a take-up M8.

The shuttle 4 [4, located beneath the work support as generally indicated in Figs. 2 and 13 of the drawings, is of the rotary type, and comprises a shuttle casing formed of a gear 428 having its center portion cut away to receive the bobbin or cop casing 422, and two plates 424 and 426 which are screwed to opposite faces of the gear and project beyond the ends of the gear teeth to form a track which is engaged by correspondingly-shaped supporting and guiding tongues formed on. supporting brackets 428. The shuttle is driven by means of a gear 433 arranged to mesh with the gear member 429, and

secured to one end of a drive -shaft 432 which carries at its other end a, spiral gear 434 arranged to engage with the Spiral gear 64- onthe main camshaft 66. Til 6100301 needle thread taken in the shuttle hook 436, and is held; in position between adjacent teeth ofthe gear 426 as the loop is carried around theshuttle.

The loop spreader 4l6- as generally. indicated Figs. 2 and. 3; is supp rtedon a shaft 438;

which is rocked during each cycle of operations to move the loop spreader and needle loop; en-. gag edtherebyacross the path of the shuttle hook 436; The looper 466, as shown in- Fig, 2-, is provided with a passageway through which the thread is drawn from the supply, and a notched portion. 43 9. across which the thread is laid by the thread finger to position the thread in the path of the needlehooh- Inasmuch as the shuttie, loopspreader and looper, together with their actuatingmechanism have substantially thesarne eonstruction and mode of, operation as, the corresponding elements more. fullyset forth in the applicants copending application- Serial 7 No.

596,051 above referred to, further illustration or" description of these parts; isybelieved unnecessary.

With the present construction, a novel and im-N proved thread finger isprovided which is. con-v structed and arranged toposition the thread in the; looper in the path of the needle hook with certainty, and withoutinjury to the-thread which mightarise either from excessivereaving of the thread through the thread handling mechanism,

or from unnecessary strainsplaced on the thread during thev forming of the, stitch. To this end.

the two members 416. and 452: are arranged to positively grinthe thread. in the position shown in Fig, 20, and then toulay the thread tightly across the two arms ofthelooper in the path of.

the needle, whileat the same time leaving as certain amount of slack thread inthe lower leg; of the bight thus. formed to, permit the threadextending from the last formed stitch to belaid along the workby the movement of theip resser foot with relation thereto preparatory to feeding the work as the needle isagain withdrawn to take up anew loop. Thetmechanisrn for im parting the required gripping andpositioning movements; to the members 4H1. and M2 of the thread finger is similar inmany respects to that illustratedin theapplicants copending appli-. cation abovereferred to butmay be briefly de-i scribed as follows in connection with Figs, 2, 16, 20 and 21 of the drawings;

The member Mills formed in the lower end of a post 440 which is journalled to rotatawithin a. sleeve member. 442 which carries at its lower n he oper ting p n e 1 h sleeve isin turn mounted for lengthwise sliding; movementswithin a, bracket444 supported on a.

pivotshaft 446cm the, machine frame. The relative angular positions of the post 440 and sleeve 442 are controlled by means of a verticallyex-' tending plate 44!v which has formed therein. a cam slot 448 arranged to receive a follower 4511. u ed, o he pp nd: of the pos 44.. A-r

forked member 4 52 formed onthe upper end of the sleeve 442 engages with the sides of the plate 446 to prevent rotational movementsof the sleeve,

442 andthe member 4l2. Vertical sliding move-.

ments are imparted to the sleeve 4.42 and post, 446 with relation to the bracket 444 through con-.

nections which comprise a link 454 connected at one end to the sleeve 442; and at its other end to a lever arm 456 mounted on asleeveuhub or frame 458-on a pivot shaftjfififl, There is also secared to; the frame acam lever-arm 462 which carries a, roll 46:4: arranged to engage in a cam grnove in; the periphery of the cam cylinder 350. 'Ijhe vertical movements thus imparted to the sleeve 442; and post 440 cause a relative rotational movement'to take place between the post 446 and s-leeve44-Z tomove; the members of the thread finger into and out of gripping engagement through action ofthe cam slot; 448 and follower 450. Eotationalmovements are also imparted to the pivot shaft 446 and: bracket 444 secured thereto to: impart the: required lateral movements tothethread finger to stretch the thread across the lpoper -bymeans of connections which comprise; a; lever arm 466 secured to the rock shaft 446, andcon-nected by means of alink468 to one arm of a cam; lever 416 which is pivotally mounted at 4.12; on; the machine frame, and at its other end carries; a r0111 414 which engages with a cam groove formed in the upper face of the camcylinder-35U.

The thread take-up as illustrated in Figs. 1, 16,- 1; 7'and 1 8 comprises a cylindrical casing 486- within which; is housed a'take-up roll 482 supported on; an arm-484 secured; to turn with a constantly rotat g; shaft; 486. A disk 488 supported on the endo-f the shaft 486; provides a shield to insure the engagement of; the thread with the take-up. 1 011 4182 between the disk 486 and the adjacent w al l;4 96; of-thccasingliiil. The shaft 486 is constantly driven from the vertical drive shaft 56 through connections which comprise a shaft 492 located parallel to, and to the rear of the shaft 486, andhaving mounted thereon a spiral gear 4.94% which meshes with a corresponding spiral gear 496 on the drive shaft 58., At its forward end thesha-ft;492 is provided with, a counterbal-i anced arm 500 which is connected through a link 54 6;, The plunger is moved against the pressureofits spring;during a portion of each sewing cycleto permit thread to-bedrawn off from the supply bymeansof a, lever 52!] connected at one endto the plungerand at-its other end provided, with a cam; roll 522 arranged to ride against a,

cam surface formedon one face of the disk 564.

The, take-upandits actuating mechanism as thus-far described are substantially the same as the corresponding mechanisms illustrated and describedv int-he applicants copending application above referred to. Mechanism is, also pro vided as in the application above referred to, which cooperates with the stop motion of' the 6 machine. tov render the take-upinoperative to, pullintheneedle-loop and prevent the severed; end of the needle: thread from. being pulled out of. the gripper by the, continued-rotation of the take-up: after the threads. have been severed 568 and the end from thework in. stopping the machine. With;

the present construction this mechanism is rendered operative to disengage the thread look by."

nd acts, tomaintainthe thread lock 0ut of theadvancing'movement of the feedcarriage i114, 

